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By Kurt On October 21, 2011make a Comment
Native Florida Trees are being planted more and more today in residential landscapes. This is not only for their natural beauty, but because their low maintenance makes them practical to use in landscaping. Since popularity and demand for native trees has increased, homeowners will find more selections available from nurseries than ever before.
In recent years native trees in Florida have been torn down from massive development. Unfortunately, since this began thousands of Native Florida Trees have been lost. This is one of the reasons why the State Of Florida now encourages homeowners to use native trees when planting new trees in their landscape.
Planting Native Florida Trees
Planting Native Florida Trees is not any different than planting other types of trees. The guidelines and requirements to be followed are the same. However, it may be necessary to reduce some of the top growth by “thinning” (removing one or more branches at the point of origin). This will preserve it’s natural shape. Do Not cut back all the top growth to the same level, which will ruin it’s shape.
When planting Native Florida Trees the top of the “root ball” needs to be placed in the ground at the same depth or level as it is grown in the field or container. If there is any circling of roots (root bound) in the “root ball” cut them vertically before planting, so the root system can grow laterally for good growth and establishment.
Plant large growing trees (over 40ft. in height) at least 30 ft. away from a home or building to avoid roof damage from falling limbs during bad storms, and damage done to the foundation from the spreading of roots. Plant small trees (up to 25ft.) and medium size trees (25-40ft.) at a distance of 10-20ft. from a home.
Care Of Newly Planted Native Trees
After Native Florida Trees have been planted proper care is needed for them to grow successfully. Newly planted trees should be watered weekly or several times a week during the first 3 months. Regular watering is done according to the amount of rainfall that occurs , and the drainage of the soil (water holding capacity).
After planting, a top dressing of a “complete” (contains essential and micro nutrients) slow-release granular tree fertilizer can be applied within the drop line around the tree. Do Not place it up against the trunk of the tree. Amount of fertilizer to be used is determined by the size of the tree planted. This information should be listed in the fertilizer label on the product. Fertilize again after 6 months of planting. No more than 2 times during the first year of establishment is needed.
Adding mulch of organic material at a depth of 2-4 inches is also recommended, leaving a space around the trunk for air circulation. Do Not pile mulch up against the trunk.
Newly planted large growing Native Florida Trees may take up to a year to become fully established. Production of new growth during the first year is an indication that the tree is being well established. This also applies to any size tree that is new.
Listed Are Names And Information On Native Florida Trees
Native Trees For North Florida
Deciduous (shed leaves in fall, bare in winter)
Name Form (shape) Size (height ft.)
Box Elder spreading over 40
Red Maple spreading 25-40
Florida Maple oval 25-40
River Birch oval over 40
Hackberry round over 40
Redbud round 25-40
Fringe Tree round up to 25
Hawthorn vase-shaped up to 25
Silver- Bell round up to 25
Sweet Gum round over 40
Crab Apple vase-shaped up to 25
Red Mulberry spreading 25-40
Sour Gum oval over 40
Sycamore round over 40
Southern Red Oak round over 40
Bald Cypress pyramidal over 40
Native Trees For North Florida
Evergreen (maintains leaves year round)
Name Form (shape) Size (height ft.)
Live Oak spreading over 40
Loblolly Bay oval 25-40
Dahoon Holly oval 25-40
American Holly pyramidal 25-40
Southern Magnolia oval over 40
Wax Myrtle round up to 25
Slash Pine round over 40
Spruce Pine oval 25-40
Leylend Cypress pyramidal 25-40
Laurel Oak oval over 40
Florida Sugar Maple round 25-40
Sparkle Berry round up to 25
Eastern Red Cedar oval 25-40
Youpon Holly oval up to 25
Cherry Laurel oval 25-40
Southern Juniper pyramidal 25-40
Native Trees For Central Florida
Deciduous (shed leaves in fall, bare in winter)
Name Form (shape) Size (height ft.)
Pignut Hickory oval over 40
Sugar Berry round over 40
Redbud round 25-40
Fringe Tree round up to 25
Dogwood round up to 25
Green Ash round over 40
Sweet Gum round over 40
Red Mulberry spreading 25-40
Sour Gum oval over 40
Sycamore round over 40
Flatwoods Plum round up to 25
Shumard Oak round over 40
Soapberry round 25-40
Bald Cypress pyramidal over 40
Winged Elm round 25-40
Red Maple oval 25-40
Buckthorn round 25-40
Native Trees For Central Florida
Evergreen (maintains leaves year round)
Name Form (shape) Size (height ft.)
Loblloy Bay oval 25-40
Dahoon Holly oval 25-40
American Holly pyramidal 25- 40
Southern Red Cedar pyramidal 25-40
Southern Magnolia oval over 40
Sweetbay spreading 25-40
Wax Myrtle round up to 25
Sand Pine oval 25-40
Spruce Pine oval 25-40
Longleaf Pine round over 40
Loblolly Pine round over 40
Laurel Oak oval over 40
Live Oak spreading over 40
Simpson’s Stopper round 25-40
Youpon Holly oval up to 25
Native Trees For South Florida
Deciduous (shed leaves in fall, bare in winter)
Name Form (shape) Size (height ft.)
Pond Apple round 25-40
Gumbo Limbo round 25-40
Jamaican Dogwood spreading 25-40
Soapberry round 25-40
Bald Cypress pyramidal over 40
Native Trees For South Florida
Evergreen (maintains leaves year round)
Name Form (shape) Size (height ft.)
Satin Leaf round 25-40
Fiddlewood oval up to 25
Pigeon Plum oval up to 25
Sea Grape spreading up to 25
Silver Buttonwood round up to 25
Geiger Tree round up to 25
Strangler Fig vase- shaped over 40
Dahoon Holly oval up to 25
Wild Tamarid round 25-40
Mastic Tree round over 40
Sand Pine oval 25-40
Slash Pine oval over 40
Laurel Oak oval over 40
Live Oak spreading over 40
Paradise Tree round 25-40
Yellow Elder round up to 25
Tawnberry Holly oval 25-40
Yaupon Holly oval up to 25
Simpson’s Stopper round 25-40
Twinberry round 25-40
Planting native trees improves the natural setting around a home, and preserves the environment by restoring the land. Using native trees in landscaping helps retain our natural resources. We can all benefit and enjoy having attractive beautiful Native Florida Trees in our landscapes.
Kurt Kmetz
Recent Posts
By Kurt On July 4, 2011
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St. Augustine Lawns
Lawn pests that are common in St. Augustine lawns are chinch bugs, white grubs, sod webworms, and mole crickets. Lawn treatment is needed to control and eliminate lawn insect pests. Identifying turf pests and damage is the first step for good lawn control of any insect infestation.
Lawn Pests Chinch Bugs
The most damaging are chinch bugs causing yellowish to brownish patches in the beginning and eventually leading to dead areas in the turf. This is a foliar- feeding insect that sucks plant juices from the roots causing damage by killing St. Augustine grass. They will spread and can eventually become a major infestation if Identifying Chinch Bug, Damage, And Treatment is not done as soon as possible. Repeat insecticidal applications is often needed to eliminate this type of lawn pests. High levels of nitrogen encourages them to invade St. Augustine lawns.
Turf Pests White Grubs
Grubs feed on the roots of St. Augustine lawns causing turf to gradually thin, turn yellow, wilt, and then die off. Irregular scattered brown patches appear and will get larger over time. Grass that is heavily infested will roll back like a carpet because the root system is gone. You can pull the turf up with your hands as it turns into hay.
White grubs are creamy white c- shaped beetles with brownish heads and have hairs on the tips of their abdomen. Mature grubs are 1/4 – 2 inches in length. If grubs are present they are found in the upper 4 – 6 inches of soil and the turf roots will look pruned. Check several places in the area to locate them in the soil.
Treat the entire area and outside along the patch with granular insecticide made for grub control. It usually comes in a bait form, which is the most effective for total elimination.
Grass Pests Sod Webworms
Lawn pests sod webworms Do Not kill St. Augustine grass but they ruin it’s appearance. They come out at night from the soil and eat the blades of grass leaving chew marks. It is very noticeable and can be seen from a distance. Sod webworms like shaded areas and hot humid weather , so are very active during the summer. They tend to stay in the same area. The more they become an infestation the larger the area will become.
One of the first signs of sod webworms is white moths that swarm together during the day. If you walk through the lawn area affected they will rise and fly around together.The moth is what lay the eggs in the soil that turn into sod webworms. Once eggs hatch and worms grow they begin chewing.
Spraying the area with insecticide will not stop the moths by killing them. They will simply fly away and come back when it dries. The soil needs to be treated by liquid soaking or granular, applications of insecticide for elimination of sod webworms. A regular treatment of insecticide can help in controlling them, but is no guarantee. When the grass grows new blades and no chew marks are seen, you will know that they are gone.
Lawn Pests Mole Crickets
The Tawny, Southern, and Short Winged, mole crickets are lawn pests found in St. Augustine grass. Adults are about one and a half inches long, light brown, with enlarged forelegs that they use to dig in the soil. Nymphs look like adults but their wings are not completely developed. Short Winged mole cricket adults have the shortest wings and cannot fly.
When mole crickets are active tunnels will be seen in the soil. Tunneling dislodges the turf and causes it to dry out. Small mounds of soil being pushed up can be seen in turf areas. Tunnels are most visible in the morning hours when dew is on the grass and soil is moist. Adult Tawny and Southern, mole crickets are seen at night near lights.
All types can be seen walking on sidewalks and driveways. Nymphs and Adult mole cricket lawn pests feed on St. Augustine grass roots and blades at night during warm weather. Especially after rain occurs and after lawn irrigation is done. Both tunneling and root feeding create patches of bare soil.
Mole Crickets are eaten by predators such as birds, armadillos, raccoon’s, but they damage the grass when searching for them and will not get all of them. Lawn treatment from pesticides is needed when tunneling and feeding is occurring. Treat with liquid or granular insecticide labeled for lawn pests mole crickets. Mole Cricket Bait is the best for larger nymphs and adults. Baits should be applied in the late afternoon or early evening. Scatter bait evenly over the soil surface. Do Not apply if rain is expected and Do Not irrigate, after treatment of bait is done.
Lawn pests that cause problems in St.Augustine grass can be troubling if left untreated. Identifying what type of lawn insect pests are causing the damage, is important for how and what should be done. St. Augustine lawns will bounce back and remain healthy with proper lawn control.
Kurt Kmetz
By Kurt On June 11, 2011
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If you have decided to start a garden with roses the first thing you must do is make the right choice on the best roses for Florida to plant. Many types of roses are available from rose growers. It is important to purchase roses from nurseries or garden centers that have suppliers from Florida growers.
Read labels for helpful information to assure you are buying the best roses for Florida. Rose plants that do not conform to Florida standards are not eligible for the “Florida Rose Grade Label”. The kind of root system must be stated on the label. Knowing what “rootstock” that is best suited for Florida’s conditions is the base for growing successful roses in Florida.
Choosing The Rootstock For Best Roses For Florida
A hardy rootstock can withstand, heat, Florida soil, and problems that can occur. Pick “Ever-Blooming Grafted” varieties on “Rosa Fortuniana” rootstock for the best roses for Florida. This rootstock is what is recommended by the state of Florida agricultural department. Fortuniana will develop a good root system that supports vigorous plant growth and will produce large beautiful flowers year after year.
Roses known as “Own Root” will not make it after one or two seasons. “Rosa Multiflora” rootstock is the shortest lived for conditions experienced in Florida. So it is important to pick the right plant for planting for good health.
The state of Florida department of agriculture has developed rose standards that are defined by certain name grades. They are called “Florida Fancy”, “Florida No. 1, and “Florida No. 2″. The best roses for Florida that have the greatest quality, is a “Florida Fancy” container grown on a “Rosa Fortuniana” rootstock.
Names Of Roses
Here are a few of the best roses for Florida, widely used types of roses that are easy to grow and offer beautiful colorful flowers year after year.
HYBRID TEA: (Most Popular) Vase-shaped flowers with long stems. Examples are, Moonstone, St. Patrick, Tiffany, Veterans Honor.
FLORIBUNDA: Low growing, bushy shrub which produce clusters of flowers. Examples are, Angel Face, Fabulous, First Kiss.
GRANDIFLORA: Large bushy shrub that produces unique clusters of flowers. Example is, Melody Parfumee.
Most garden centers or nurseries carry these rose types when roses are in stock. If not ask if they are available and can be ordered for you. These names of roses are big sellers so chances are you should be able to find them.
Rose gardeners often choose a variety for a special trait. Some prefer a certain flower color, form, or scent. Experienced rose growers always choose the types of roses with good quality for success and satisfaction. This is the way to have the best roses for Florida in your landscape.
Kurt Kmetz
