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By Kurt On May 9, 20092 Comments
The chinch bug is the number one pest of St. Augustine Grass. It will do the most damage to your lawn in a short period of time. If left untreated they will destroy large areas as they multiply. They are found from southern North Carolina south to the Florida Keys, and westward to central Texas. They have also been reported to do damage in southern California, Mexico, and Hawaii. In Florida they begin to appear in May and continue throughout the summer.
Chinch bugs suck the sap out of the roots and the stems of the grass. At first areas infested will begin to turn yellow in color as irregular patches, then turn reddish brown. Blades start to curl up looking grayish and dead, roots die off as they continue sucking out the juices. Chinch bugs work there way through the healthy turf. They love to live in dry sunny areas that have heat or drought stress. They are found in the middle of a lawn or near and along driveways and side walks working outward.
Description And Development:
Chinch bugs lay their eggs and hatch in as little as one week during the summer. First they appear as bright orange in the Nymph stage, turning dark red as they begin to mature. When fully matured reaching the adult stage they are one - fifth of an inch in length, black with white wings on their back. During this stage is when they do the most damage and can fly to other locations in the lawn.
Monitoring:
I recommend to inspect your lawn at least once a week during the summer months. Early detection can stop a major infestation from occurring and keeping them under control. Walk sunny areas throughout your yard especially along the edges of pavement where they can begin to do damage. If you notice any signs of a problem get close to the ground and seperate the blades of grass with your hands looking around and under the roots. When exposed to the sun they will run to get out of it and you can see them. In heavy infestations they can be seen crawling over the blades. If you don’t find any chinch bugs it could be a sign of lack of water.
Elimination:
The best way to get rid of them is to treat with a liquid insecticide soaking the area in and around it. Granular does work but needs to be thoroughly watered in right away. Blanket treating your lawn is helpful in controlling them but no guarantee they will not pop up. By monitoring your lawn on a regular basis and knowing how to identify the problem is the best method for control. Following proper lawn maintenance like watering, mowing,and fertilization can reduce the chances of chinch bugs in St. Augustine grass.
Kurt Kmetz

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By Kurt On April 11, 2009
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Mulch is used for appearance, moisture retention, weed control, and in keeping soil temperatures warm in the winter, cool in the summer. Mulch is helpful to keep erosion from occurring in landscapes. It is placed around bedding plants, trees, and shrubs.
There are different types of mulch to choose from which are sold at nurseries, garden centers, or grocery stores. It can be purchased by the bag, or loose in large quantities which can be delivered ( Be prepared for a pile dumped on your property ). Some counties offer free mulch to be picked up, but a pickup truck will be needed to transport it to your location, contact your local extension service for information.
Proper mulching is important for the health of plants, trees, and shrubs. Listed are some helpful tips to assure it is done correctly:
1) Applying the amount of mulch is determined by the texture and it’s density. Spread fine mulch two to three inches deep after settling to avoid suffocating the roots of plants.
2) Mulch composed of shredded or small leaves such as oak leaves should not be spread exceeding a depth of two inches. The leaves become compacted together which restricts water and air to the root system. DO NOT pile too high.
3) DO NOT pile mulch close to or against the base of any tree or shrub. This can cause ” ROOT - ROT ” from lack of air circulation and too much moisture retention. Leave space around the base and trunk.
4) DO NOT place mulch above the lower stems of shrubs burying them causing them to rot. This will promote a disease known as ” STEM - ROT “.
5) DO NOT put mulch up against or too close to the trunk of citrus trees. Place around at the end of where the canopy extends to or do not mulch at all for it is not necessary for citrus trees.
6) Mulch in larger pieces last longer and is better for weed control. Fine mulch adds nutrients to the soil faster by breaking down quicker.
7) Professional landscapers mostly use a mulch containing both fine and course.
Organic mulch does not need to be replaced more often and less is required as the plants or shrubs mature.
9) AVOID piling mulch up against walls of buildings in order to keep from attracting termites. Place it at least two feet away from your home.
10) DO NOT leave old mulch in your landscape for a long time. Clean it out and replace it with fresh brand new to avoid fungus problems to your plants, and shrubs.
11) It is NOT recommended to use a ” RED - DYED ” mulch which can create a chemical un - balance in the soil. This can be harmful to the health of plants, trees, and shrubs.
12) I don’t prefer to use pine bark nuggets for they attract the nesting of carpenter ants which will eventually wind up in your home, if placed close to it.
By following the information listed above you will achieve the succesful garden and landscape wanted by everyone. I hope these will be helpful tips for you.
Thank You, Kurt Kmetz

By Kurt On March 14, 2009
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Planting trees and shrubs requires more than just digging a hole and putting them is the ground. Many times I have seen landscaping companies and home owners install new shrubs only to watch some of them die from incorrect planting. This is not only a waste of time but more important, a loss of money. In today’s economy, no one can afford that to happen. You don’t have to be a professional horticulturist to be successful and have the landscape you desire. It all starts at the beginning with a good foundation.
Before purchasing selection is very important. Make sure that you only choose trees and shrubs that will adapt to each location. Quality is also important so shop at a reputable garden center or nursery.
For shrubs, pick ones that are not “Broken”, “Cracked”, or “Scared”. For trees, choose ones that are “Upright” and full of Branches (Not Thin). Look at the foliage. If they are Dropping their Leaves or don’t look Healthy with Droopy Leaves. If they are, Don’t Buy Them!
Planting Tips For Trees and Shrubs
| 1) |
Prepare area by removing debris such as rocks, dead leaves, dead branches, and old mulch using a garden rake. Grade area to a proper level for proper drainage. |
| 2) |
Do Not add amendments for they are not beneficial to use when planting. The roots will be kept from spreading. Shrub Roots need to grow beyond the branch spread. Roots of large trees need to grow at least 30-feet from the trunk, providing support and for them to find nutrients. |
| 3) |
Remove tree or shrubs from it’s container by laying it on it’s side and hitting the pot with heel of your hand. pull it out after it has been loosened. If it does not come out freely, cut the container down the side away the “Root Ball”. |
| 4) |
Break apart “Root Ball” down the side with garden shears, an ax, or your hand. This gives the roots a chance to grow outward to become established quicker, and absorbing nutrients and water faster. |
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Avoid air pockets by filling the hole with water first. Place tree or shrub in the hole and fill the sides with dirt but not compacting it to tightly. Water after the tree or shrub when you are finished planting. |
| 6) |
Do Not Plant or Bury Trees or Shrubs Too Deep. Plant them no deeper than they have been grown in the container. The “Root Ball” should be even or slightly above the soil surface to allow for settling. I recommend slightly above. Planting at the correct level assures they will receive the right amount of air. |
| 7) |
Plant the good side facing forward (the direction you want them to be seen) because they might not have been shaped properly by the retailer or nursery before being sold. This is especially for shrubs. Proper pruning after tree or shrubs become established will help them to grow well-rounded. |
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Do Not Plant shrubs too close to each other. You want to give them room to grow to their mature size (Read Label) It is important to know how each type will eventually grow in size. For placement - Plant shrubs Three Feet apart and Three feet away from Buildings, or Fences. Over planting is a common mistake causing over-crowding and over spending. |
| 9) |
Apply mulch over the root ball around the base at a two-to-three inch layer. Do Not pile mulch up against the trunk of the tree or shrub leaving space, and spread it evenly around it. Too much mulch piled against shrubs can cause root or stem rot. They need air circulation. |
| 10) |
Fertilize after “Thirty Days” of planting. Place Granular Fertilizer one to two feet away from the trunk around the tree or shrub at an even rate. Place top of mulch or pull mulch apart and place on top of the soil. Follow directions for amount on the fertilizer label. |
| 11) |
When planting trees, it is important they have a strong foundation and are placed upright. Staking larger trees is recommended for support protecting them from wind before roots become established. form a saucer like basin with a burm around the tree to aid in watering. |
| 12) |
Do Not plant trees that will become large too close to buildings for the roots can damage the foundation. Limbs can break off during storms damaging roofs and windows. |
| 13) |
Do Not plant trees where the roots will grow under driveways and sidewalks for the roots can damage concrete or brick Plus, the tree can have health problems from roots being buried under them. |
| 14) |
Remember if you have a large tree on your property line the owner is responsible for trimming limbs growing into your neighbors yard, and any damage done from broken falling limbs. |
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Following these Tree and Shrub Installation Tips will ensure healthy growing trees and shrubs in Florida.
Kurt Kmetz
